GardenGuru

I am doubling the size of my garden this year. I started in the fall by taking down this amazing 26 year old pine tree it was a beautiful tree but had two problems 1) it shaded my existing garden for half a day, and 2) It stood where I wanted to expand the garden as this picture shows and this one So, I limbed it up Topped it and tipped it over with the roots still attached so I wouldn't have to deal with them in the garden. Except for the hole it left. But I have come up with a couple of ideas for dealing with the hole. I might use it for a compost pile, I might steal soil from all over the garden to help fill it in, and I am definitely open for suggestions.

If you are contemplating starting a new garden or expanding an existing one I will give you some ideas from what has worked for me. It was late in early November when I took the tree down. Once it was down I carefully marked off the new garden area by measuring the boundaries with a tape measure so the borders would be parallel with the fence. I drove stakes into the ground then strung a string along the borders. I then used a garden spade to cut about 6 inches into the sod for a permanent marker for the borders. I removed the strings then sprayed the new marked garden area with roundup. The weather was in the high 60's so the roundup didn't work very quickly or well. But it was applied. I will apply again this spring if the grass appears to have survived.

Once the grass is dead I will till it completely into the garden with my trusty Troy Bilt tiller that I have had since 1983. I can till to eight inches with that machine, it has been my garden partner for almost 30 years and I wouldn't know what to do without it. Anyway, When the grass is definitely dead it can be tilled in without worry about it regenerating. I did that on my original garden six years ago and had no problems. The top soil and sod is extremely good soil and I don't want to lose it. Once I have tilled the soil completely so that I can push my hand down six or more inches I will add the leaves. I have these saved for it and have a second pile I saved for my son who is also starting a new garden area, which I'm sure I can borrow from if I need them. I will till the leaves in a few at a time until I have them completely worked in. I will then add some ammonium sulphate (21% nitrogen) to aid in the break down of the leaves. At this point I will be ready to lay out the garden for planting.

I never walk on a tilled garden. Compressing the soil by walking on it defeats all the work I have just done. I have watched many people take the time and effort to till their garden soil then turn right around and walk wherever they want. I walk where I will make walkways. I always have paths in my garden for walking. I never walk in the areas where the plants will be. When I make the paths I then cover them with bark chunks. I always use the small chunks (you can buy small, medium, and large). They look very nice in the garden, your soil stays un-compacted, and at the end of the season you just till them in. With bark chunks on your paths you are able to walk through your garden even when it's muddy. My grandkids can clearly see where they can walk and so can visitors, thus eliminating the STAY OUT OF THE GARDEN!! lecture you would have to give your kids, neighborhood kids, or grandkids.

If you will be planting any perennials in your garden you will only have one chance to improve the soil so use it wisely. Choose the area for planting and use a technique called double digging. This is a simple method of soil preparation that can also be used for heavy clay. You will want to do this before you have tilled the entire area. Dig down about the first six inches and set that soil aside. You will then be working in the soil that is left. Using your shovel turn the soil over and leave it in the hole. Now work in your organic matter thoroughly. Use fairly coarse material in this area if you can. I like to use a mixture of leaves and shredded bark. The coarse material will last longer in the soil, break down slower, and provide more organic material over the long haul. Mix this material up very well then add a little nitrogen to help in the breakdown process and feed your plants. Now you will work with the upper six inches in the same manner. Once this is completed you should have a soil area that is a couple inches higher than the surrounding soil. It will now be ready for planting. Once you have planted you will want to side dress the plants with nitrogen to ensure that they have sufficient nitrogen to grow. Just don't overdo or you can cause damage.

In my next post I will talk about planting techniques, both conventional and ones I have developed myself.

Until next time. Keep planning that garden, look at it as an investment. Sure you can go to the store and buy a lot of the produce cheaper, now. Even if that never changes I still get a ton of satisfaction out of growing it myself and I know EVERYTHING that has been put in, around, and on my produce. If (and most of us say "when") the time comes that you either can't afford to buy at the store or there is simply no store to go to, you can provide your family with many items from the garden that just may save your life. And remember, have FUN in the gardening process.

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