Step by step AR-15 build buffer assembly

[shine]

I will assemble the upper/barrel as soon ans funds permit. and step by step it.

I wanted to build an AR 15 from scratch. mostly because I wanted to see how the ar-15 worked. It will end up costing me about 600-700 dollars for a complete rifle, exactly how I want it. I plan on going with MAGPUL furniture, and a TiN (titanium), or stainless bolt/carrier.

here are the parts

-bought del-ton lower preassembled trigger and lower. 159 dollars
-buffer tube (commercial), buffer, and spring
-rear take down pin, spring, and little pin to hold in place
-castle nut
-receiver end plate. (I bought one that I could attack a 1 point sling to. all cost about 50 dollars.

and the castle nut wrench...5 dollars


first i attached the castle nut to the commercial buffer tube. castle indents facing back(IMPORTANT....there are 2 commercial and milspec...one wont fit the other. most AR lower manufacturers use the commercial, find out which you use.

I then attached the receiver end plate, not all have the hole on the side for a 1 point sling. mine cost about 10 bucks at the gun show.

[shine]

I put the dis-assembly pin in, from right to left, coming out where my thumb is, then i put the little detent pin in, there is a little hole you can see right above my left index finger. It doesn't matter which way you put it in, it is pointed on either side. then i put the spring in.



i placed the buffer detent spring and pin in.i screwed in the buffer tube enough to hold in the spring and pin, but not enough to tighten the receiver end plate against the little spring and pin that go under the end plate. the notches in the buffer tube will be down. the lip of the detent pin will catch on the buffer tube and hold it in place. if the tube isnt facing down, then UNSCREW it until if faces down, bu tnot enough to release the detent pin/spring.

[shine]

here is the take-down pin, big and black, the spring adn pin that go in the end under the receiver end plate.


gently guide the receiver end plate back and tighten the castle nut as you go, by hand. the end plate will hold the spring and pin in securely. (one of its main jobs)



use the castlenut wrench to tighten the castle nut. the threads are aluminum, so don't strip them. almost done.



place the buffer spring in the tube, it doesn't matter which end you place in first.



now place the buffer on the spring and past the pin, you may need a small screwdriver to hold down the detent pin


get your stock, pull the adjustable lever out near the screw so that it slides on the buffer tube.

you have installed the stock, and have a complete lower for about 215 dollars.

I was going to assemble the power, trigger assembly and pins, but it was about 50 dollars cheaper to buy it assembled.


next part of my build will be attaching the barrel to the upper. I plan on installing an 18" stainless heavy barrel, 1:8 twist rate so that i can shoot heavier bullets. I don't plan on EVER shooting 45 grain bullets, so 1:9 twist is a bit too slow for me.

[shine]

we just assembled a stripped lower. If anyone is interested, i can post a how to on that also.

[AZ Prepper]

we just assembled a stripped lower. If anyone is interested, i can post a how to on that also.
Please do.